As at
yesterday, have walked 650km from the north top of the South Island and it means I have
walked half of the South Island. The second half of the walk started today - got a still
long way to go, gotta straighten myself up to go.
At 8:00 the accommodation
owner kindly gave me a ride to outskirt of the town, and hitched a ride to the
point on the other side of Rangitata river near to Mesopotamia Highcountry
Station where I finished yesterday. Took me about 1 hour by 2 rides to Peel Forest
where a small settlement there. Last 50km to the track start was a gravel road
with almost no traffic. Reminded Peel Forest Farmstay offers transport for
their guests - I would be none the worse for being turned down, just rang them to
ask for a transport. Said they could do it for $40.
The owners couple were out
for Nelson to attend a meeting, and Ian, a brother of the owner, was looking
after the property at that time. Ian and David, a German working holiday
tourist, gave me a ride by David's car to the start point and walked with me
for the first 1km. Did not see any cars at all during an hour drive and it saved
me a lot of trouble.
Mesopotamia and Erewhon are special places for Kiwis, like
a home of mind. Kept the scenery in my mind and further went into the valley. Crossed rapid Bush Creek over and over like heck, sometimes soaking up to just
under the navel, and climbed the steep ridge line.
Arrived at Crooked Spur hut
on a rise at 15:45. There was a fireplace in the hut but no forest around for
collecting some firewood. Freezing cold as the lower part of my body was
drenched to the skin. Snuggled into sleeping bag early in the evening. According to the hut book, no visitors registered for 2 weeks. Went to bed at
22:30. Walked 3.5 hours, 9km.
昨日までで南島の北端から計約650km、南島全体の半分の距離を歩いた。今日から後半戦のスタート。まだ先は長いと改めて気分を引き締める。
8:00に宿のオーナーさんが親切にも町外れまで送ってくれ、そこからヒッチハイクで昨日歩き終えたランギタタ川の対岸の、メソポタミア高原牧場近くのトレイル始点へと向かう。小さいながらも集落のあるピール・フォレストまでは1時間少々、2度のヒッチハイクで到着できたが、その先まだ50kmもの道はほとんど車の通らない砂利道。ダメ元で、宿泊客に送迎の便宜を図ってくれると聞いたピール・フォレスト・ファームステイに電話してみたところ、$40で車を出してくれるという。
オーナー夫妻はネルソンの会合に出かけて不在とかで、留守番のオーナーの弟のイアンさんが、ワーホリのドイツ人のデイヴィッドの車で一緒にスタート地点まで送ってくれただけでなく、初めの1km位を一緒に話しながら歩いてくれた。車で移動中の1時間以上の間も、対向車すら見かけなかったので送ってもらえて本当に助かった。
このメソポタミアと対岸のエアフォン (Erewhon, nowhereの逆読みの造語）は多くのNZ人にとって心の故郷的な感情を抱かせる特別な場所。その風景を目に焼き付け、目の前の谷へと分け入って行く。ブッシュ・クリークを再び右へ左へと、時にはヘソ下まで水に浸かる急の渡渉を必死で繰り返し、最後は尾根を急登して、15:45頃高台にあるクルークド・スパー小屋に到着した。
暖炉はあっても周りに薪を拾えるような森はなく、下半身がずぶ濡れでとても寒い。早々に寝袋に潜り込む。山小屋のビジターブックによると、過去2週間この山小屋を訪れた人は誰もいなかったようだ。22:30就寝。本日の歩行3.5時間、9km。
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