South Island Day 10, 15/04/18 〜 南島第10日・2018年4月15日

Got up at 5:30 and left hut at 7:15 to go ahead as far as possible before the storm coming tonight. Up to Mid Waiora hut, track went on the ridge line through the forest and saw two feral goats running away. Last 3km to the hut was very steep down hill and hard on the knees, and it changed completely to a narrow foot path built on the cliff going up along the Waiora River in the valley floor. In some sections, walked sideways - front packs attached on the backpack straps interrupted. Tricky sections, which a little slip could end up to 10m slide, went on. 3 Fantails flying ahead and back eased my nerve. Crossed the knee deep stream 8 times.

Had a good chat with 3 TA walkers coming from opposite direction, said Hunters Hut was very comfy. Walked fast to get to the hut. After Top Wairoa Hut on top of the hill, scenery changed dramatically to the famous Red Hill mountain region, the red and bleak wilderness that I have longed to see for a long time. This Red Hill and the Red Hill situated between Haast and Milford Sound down south of the South Island had been a massif millions years ago, and split in two far north and the south about several hundred kilometres by plate tectonics. Felt eternal flow of the earth history.

Walked up and down the 800m altitude saddle to get to the other side of the mountain. When getting really closed to the hut, I was totally exhausted... stumbled on my foot and fell forward on the ground... got a wound on right cheek. Hunters Hut was a memorial of 2 DOC hunters who died when the old Bush Edge Hut was washed away by the flood. A comfy hut as heard.

After 15 minutes of my arrival, a German couple Timo and Lisa, who I met at the Greenstone Hut a month and half ago, arrived. Worked together collecting and chopping firewood from dead trees around. Had a warm and relaxed evening. It was cloudy all day and rain became steady from 21:30 as forecasted. Went to bed at 23:00. Walked 10hours, 24km.

　昨日同様、今晩の嵐が来る前にできるだけ進もうと、5:30起床、7:15出発。ミッド・ワイオラ小屋まではずっと森に覆われた尾根歩きで、途中2頭の野生のヤギが逃げていくのが見えた。小屋までの最後の3kmは膝にきつい急傾斜の下り坂。その後は一転して、谷底を流れるワイオラ川沿いに作られた、崖上の狭い道を上流に向かって進む。所々カニのように横這いになって進まなくてはならない所もあり、パックの肩ベルト前面に取り付けたフロント・パックが邪魔に感じられた。足を少し滑らせただけで10m程滑落しかねない箇所の連続。しかし3羽のファンテイルが前後しながら後をついてきて気持ちを和ませてくれた。途中、膝下ぐらいの水位の渡渉が8回。

　逆方向から北上してくるTAウォーカー3人と出会い、互いに情報交換。ハンターズ小屋がとても快適な小屋だと聞き足を早める。川を登り詰めたトップ・ワイロア小屋から風景がガラッと変わり、有名なレッドヒル山域に入る。赤茶けた荒涼とした景色は、長年1度目にしたいと思っていた。南島の南、ハーストとミルフォードサウンドの中間にあるレッドヒル山域とここは元一つの山塊だったものが、プレートテクトニクスによって南島の北と南に何100kmも離れてしまったものだとか。地球の悠久の時の流れを感じる風景だった。

　そこから山の反対側まで峠を800m登り、また800m下った時にはヘトヘトに疲れており、今晩泊まる山小屋まで後少しという所で足がもつれ、正面から倒れ込んだ右頬に傷を作ってしまった。ハンターズ小屋は、前身のブッシュエッジ小屋が洪水で流された時に亡くなった、二人のDOCハンターを追悼して建てられた小屋で評判通り快適な所。