North Island Day 55, 27/10/17 ~ 北島第55日・2017年10月27日

No rain at all in spite of forecast of rain, it was fine weather all day. Soon after having started from the campsite, walked across Tokomaru river. The other side of river was a private land where sheep were grazing. After 20 minutes walk, crossed the Tokomaru river again to visit remains of James Burtton's Whare. Thought about his 40 year life living by himself in the forest away from town.

From this point, there were less track signs that made me lost sometimes. The worst happened at last 1hour of walk. Took a way to left at the fork according to the topomap as there was no sign. After 15 minutes did not see any signs yet. From experience, this means I came on a wrong way most of the time. Felt anxious and went back to the fork to check the other way. It was a 4WD road that went up on the mountain after a few river crossings - an absolutely wrong way. Went back to the fork at 3rd time. At the moment wasted 90 minutes.

Made up my mind to take the way to the left again, and turn back to the point where I camped last night if not seeing a track sign after 1hour walk. On 2nd attempt to go on the left, found a TA sign after 30+ minutes walk that made me feel relieved. After midday, walked whole Burtton Track and it meant I took more than 5 hours for only 8km.

Walked on the road about 1 hour, then went into Mangahao-Makahika Track in Tararua Forest Park. It was the muddiest track of all the North Island tracks with steep ups&downs, I would say a harsh mountain path. A bird call similar to Mohua (yellowhead) comforted me when taking a break. Never heard its call but could be a Popokatea (whitehead)?

The last a few kilometres was an old tram line. Expected an easy one, but was not... it went through a boggy area. Why did people in those days build a tram line in such a marsh?! In addition, had to cross the same river from one side to the other every 20-30m, millions of times... Man, give me a break!!

At 17:30 eventually walked out the bogs, sigh. Dived into Makahika Outdoor Pursuit Centre after a few more kms walk. Believe it or not, was allowed to have a free stay in a bunkum of the lodge, including use of shower and kitchen! As I planned to camp outside, the unexpected and comfy evening brought me back to life. Walked 26km today.

幸いなことに予報されていた雨は全く降らず、1日良い天気だった。キャンプ地を出発してすぐにトコマル川を対岸へ渡るところがあり、20分ほど歩いて再びトコマル川を渡り返して元いた側に戻る。ジェイムズ・バートンさんの旧居跡を訪ねて、この人里離れた森に40年近く一人で暮らしたという人の人生に想いを馳せる。

極め付けが最後の1時間で、標識のないT字の分岐を地図で判断して左に進んだが、15分以上進んでも一向に道標が現れない。今までの例でいくと、こういう場合道を間違っていることが多かったので不安になり、もう一方の道をチェック。そちらは四輪駆動車用道路で、何度か川を渡渉した挙げ句対岸の山を登りだしたので、絶対に違うと判断し三たびT字路へ戻る。この時点で90分の浪費。

　覚悟を決め、もし1時間歩いて標識がなければ昨日来た道を引き返すことにし、左の道を2度めにどんどん進むと、30分以上歩いたところでやっとTAの道標を見つけほっと胸をなでおろした。結局、バートントラックを歩き終えたのは正午過ぎで、僅か8kmに5時間以上もかかってしまった。

　それから道路を小一時間進み、たらルア森林公園内にあるマンガハオ・マカヒカ・トラックへ。こればまた、この北島を歩いてきた中で最もドロドロといっても良いような道で、上り下りもきつく難儀な山道。途中の休憩時にキイロモフアムシクイ（モフア/イエローヘッド）によく似た鳴き声を耳にしたのが僅な慰めになった程度。鳴き声を耳にしたことはないが、シロモフアムシクイ（ポポカテア/ホワイトヘッド）だろうか？

　この最後の数キロは昔のトロッコ線路跡らしく、歩きやすくなるかと期待したが、逆にどうやってこんな泥池に線路を通したのか問いかけたくなるようなひどい泥沼。おまけに一本の川を20〜30mおきに此岸から対岸、また此岸へと何十回も渡らされ、もういい加減にしてくれと根を上げかけたら、17:30頃やっと抜け出ることができた。