South Island Day 21, 26/04/18 〜 南島第21日・2018年4月26日

Did not sleep well last night being disturbed by noises. Someone was making weird flapping noises and kicking and dropping something on the floor several times. One of the three arrived last night must be sleepwalking.

Got up at 6:00 and left the hut at sunrise 7:15. A natural hot spring I supposed to pass today did not have an interpretation panel but was easy to find with subtle sulphur smell and a steaming creek flowing out from the pool.

Arrive at the hot spring at 8:30. Wanted to indulge myself in a natural jacuzzi... but just finished in 15 minutes because I naturally can't stay in a hot tub for long and sandflies kept annoying me (NB. traditionally we Japanese enjoy soaking ourselves in hot springs way longer than 15 minutes).

Bathing in the hot spring was very comfy: inside of the pool was sealed with concrete and pebbles, and cold water intake coming from a nearby steam could cool down the hot water as needed. Leaves and twigs floating in the water didn't bother me much as they sank to the bottom if staying still in the water. Source of the hot spring gushing about 20m upstream was about 50℃.

Arrived at No.3 hut at 11:00. Department of Internal Affairs built 5 huts along Harper pass after "the second Milford track" in 1942, and only 2 of them (No.3 hut and Locke Stream hut) exist nowadays. This track did not grow in popularity probably because World War II commenced at that time.

Had a lunch and left the hut at 11:30. Did not plan where to stay at beginning of the day, and thought I could go to the hut beyond the pass if I walk fast. Walked pass 2 small huts on my way and arrived at Harper Pass (962m) at 15:00. Hurrying down the hill as if competing with sunset, arrived at Locke Stream hut at 16:30 earlier than expected. Spent a peaceful evening by myself today. Went to bed at 23:00. Walked 9 hours 15 minutes, 24km.

　昨夜到着した三人のうちの一人が夢遊病者のようで、夜中に何度もバタバタと変な音を立てたり、物を蹴って落としたりするのでよく眠れなかった。

　6:00に起き、日の出と共に7:15出発。今日通りかかる予定の天然温泉は案内板も何もないが、小川が湯気を立てて微かに硫黄の臭いもしたのですぐに分かった。8:30に着き、のんびり浸かろうと思っていたが、元来烏の行水なのとサンドフライにたかられて落ち着いて入れないので、15分ほどで出てしまった。

　石をコンクリートで固めた壁で湯を堰き止めた浴槽は、近くの小川から引いたパイプの水で温度調整ができるようになっており快適だった。そこに木の葉や枝等のゴミが溜まっていたが、じっとしていればまたすぐに下に沈んでしまうのでそんなに気にならない。源泉はすぐ20mほど上から湧き出ており50℃ほどの熱さだった。

　11:00頃No.3小屋着。1940年に内務省が第二のミルフォード・トラックを目指してハーパー峠沿いに建てた5軒の山小屋のうちの一軒だそうだ。同じ頃第二次世界大戦が勃発したせいだろうか、このトラックがミルフォードのように人気になることはなかったようだ。ここでゆっくり昼食を食べて出たのが11:30。今朝出発した時はどこまで行くか決めていなかったが、峠の先の小屋まで行けそうなのでピッチを上げる。